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Escaping Ruta 7
2018-06-25
Počas nášho výletu sme sa podujali prebicyklovať Carreteru Austral, kvôli ktorej sa toľko cyklistov vydáva do Južnej Ameriky. Ako veľmi sa nám to (ne)podarilo, môžete posúdiť sami na základe tohoto článku. Ako ubiehal čas a my sme mali ťažkosti so všetkým možným, začínalo byť zjavné, že na nej nezostaneme až dokonca. Nie len že veľké časti cesty stále pripomínajú tankodrom, ale rôzne úseky pravidelne zatvárajú kvôli závalom. Do toho by nás určite čakal ďalší sneh a poľadovica a stále tá istá monotónna ponuka minimarketov (chleba a keksy) už nás tiež omrzela. Navyše sa núkala šanca okúsiť ďalší nový kút Chile, takže nakoniec sme tomu veľmi nedali a prešli zo slávnej sedmičky ledva 570 km (a aj to zahŕňalo stopovanie). Nemálo času sme strávili prípravou únikovej trasy, ktorá sa nakoniec ukázala približne rovnako komplikovaná ako pokračovať po samotnej Carretere Austral.
Keď sme konečne dosiahli križovatku s X-12, museli sme prejsť ešte 80 km po ďalšej, zle udržiavanej šutrovej štreke pre traktory do najbližšieho prístavu. Loď chodí v utorky a v soboty a ak budeme veľmi šikovní, stihneme tú zajtrajšiu naobed. Lenže X-12 bolo 100% puro rípio, teda úplne najhorší typ cesty, ktorú tak ešte môžeme titulovať. Ťažké lepkavé bahno, čo sa pri daždi rozmočí na hnusnú brečku, ktoré strieda násyp zo šutrov veľkých jak vajco. A to furt hore a dole. Rovnakú trasu po asfalte by sme normálne mali zvládnutú za štvrtinu času. 80 km sa nám prirodzene za deň nepodarilo a dostihol nás dážď. Našli sme šikovné kempovisko pri rieke pod mostom, kam nepršalo a v suchu sme prečkali noc, počas ktorej pršali vodopády a pokračovali v nepoľavujúcom tempe aj na druhý deň. Opustili sme myšlienku, že sa ešte do obeda dostaneme do prístavu. Boli sme skoro rozhodnutí zostať v útočisku pod mostom dozajtra, s nádejou že dažde aspoň trochu poľavia. Ďalšia loď pôjde zase o 3 dni, takže už nie sme v strese. Nebyť toho, že rieka vedľa nás od včera večera stúpla asi o meter a pol... Z celkom neškodnej, šantivej riečky sa stal nenažraný dravý prúd ktorý sa divokou rýchlosťou valil len pár metrov od nás a prietrž mračien zatiaľ vôbec neslabla. Mali sme ešte slabého polmetra rezervu, než sa celá tá vodná masa preleje cez nás a všetky naše veci, keď sme usúdili že je stále lepšie ísť do dažďa ako plávať.
Pokračovali sme po rozmoknutom, zabáravom blate. Po asi hodine sa na nás usmialo šťastie a okolo išlo auto. Dvaja dedkovia mali samozrejme kabínu zapratanú nejakými rárohmi, takže sme sa odviezli na korbe. Cesta zahŕňa kompu cez rieku, ktorá našťastie fungovala, ale bola práve na druhom brehu rozvodneného toku. Vodič ju privolal asi 5- minútovým trúbením. Keby sme tu boli sami na bicykloch, nikdy by sme sa na druhú stranu nedokričali a pravdepodobne museli čakať na najbližšie auto, čo by mohlo trvať aj pol dňa a v tomto lejaku by to vôbec nebola sranda. O nejakú chvíľu sme dorazili do dediny, ujkovia nás vysadili pred hostelom a my sme sa konečne mohli ísť zohriať k piecke. Od mora sme počuli trúbenie lodnej sirény. Chvalabohu, trajekty stále chodia.
Celú nedeľu a pondelok sme sa nepohli od hostelových kachlí okrem krátkych zachádzok do obchodu a čakali na utorkovú loď. Vonku zatiaľ už tretí deň neprestávalo božie dopustenie a bez prestávky lialo 7 mm za hodinu. V jednom z obchodov mala kanceláriu lodná spoločnosť a kúpili sme si lístky na trajekt. Upozornili nás, že je možné že v tomto počasí bude plavba meškať. Príchod lode sa dozvieme zajtra keď vypláva z prístavu. Ďalší hostia, ktorých naši domáci čakali už od soboty, nedorazili ani včera ani dnes. Cestu zaliala voda a kvôli závalom bola už druhý deň uzavretá. Pravdepodobne sme boli jedni z posledných, ktorí prešli. O zajtrajšej plavbe sme stále nemali žiadne informácie.
V utorok ráno prestalo pršať. Zbalení a prichystaní sme išli do prístavu, aby sme zistili, či sa tam niečo deje. Podľa cestovného poriadku mal trajekt vyplávať o 10-tej, asi 15 minút pred tým nám robotníci na móle povedali, že v blízkej dobe nijakú loď nečakajú a o žiadnej nevedia. Vrátili sme sa do obchodu, kde sme sa dozvedeli, že trajekt vyplával a očakávajú ho tu okolo piatej poobede. Keď nám hovorili, že sa môže omeškať, predstavovala som si meškanie tak hodinu-dve. Teraz sme mali ešte pol dňa času, ale už sme sa nechceli vybaľovať, aby sme nakoniec nezmeškali loď na ktorú čakáme 3 dni. Spomenuli sme si na náš príchod v sobotu večer pred troma dňami a uvedomili si, že siréna ktorú sme počuli musela byť naša "zmeškaná" loď, ktorej tiež posunuli plavbu.
V priebehu dňa za nami prišla vedúca hostela a oznámila nám, že loď práve opustila 1 a pol hodiny vzdialený prístav, takže tu bude asi o štvrtej. Vyzeralo to, že celá dedina vie, kedy príde naša loď iba my nie. O štvrtej sme boli v prístave, kde sa medzitým na dverách obytného kontajnera supľujúceho kanceláriu objavila rukou písaná informácia, že trajekt tu bude o 16.15. Už tu stáli aj dve ďalšie autá (z toho jedno s ovcou naloženou na korbe, kde ju akurát strihali), takže asi sa niečo naozaj bude diať. Príchod a odchod lode nakoniec doprevádzala snáď polka dediny. Žena, ktorú sme poznali z obchodu si nakladala tovar na korbu svojho hiluxu. Celému naloďovaniu asistovali aj dvaja uniformovaní policajti so zapnutou húkačkou, pre ktorých to v tejto prdeli asi bude jediné spestrenie pracovného týždňa. A hlavne, aj my sme nastúpili na loď! Vzhľadom k meškaniu dorazíme do našej destinácie o druhej ráno. Nemali sme vôbec žiadny plán, čo budeme robiť, keď sa uprostred noci vylodíme. Pri móle čakali nejakí verbovači a ponúkali izby, ale pýtali si neprimerané ceny, navyše za polku noci. Chvíľu sme zvažovali postaviť si stan dole na pláži, ale našťastie sme počúvli hlas zdravého rozumu, pretože ráno sme pláž našli pod vodou. Nakoniec sme našli kanceláriu s čakárňou lodnej spoločnosti, s ktorou sme sa práve doplavili a natiahli sa na lavičkách, odkiaľ nás vyhodili až o pol ôsmej ráno. Mali sme to za sebou!
During our southamerican bike trip, we attempted to cycle the Carretera Austral, the reason why so many cyclists and hitchhikers come to South America. How much we (didn't) succeed can you judge according to this article. As the time was passing and we were having difficulties with quite some things, it became apparent that we will not stay on the Carretera Austral all the way to the end. Not only that large parts of the road still looked like a war zone, also some sections were regularly being closed due to landslide. What more, we would have to expect more snow and black ice and the same monotonous offer of the tiny minimarkets in the villages (bread and cookies) also started to be annoying. What more, there was a chance to discover a new part of Chile, so we said screw it and cycled only about 500 km of the famous Carretera Austral (and that included also some hitchhiking). A considered amount of time we spent planning actually leaving the Carretera, what turned out to be at least as complicated as sticking to it.
When we finally reached the crossroads with X-12, we had to cross 80 more kilometers on another ill-maintained, gravel shit of a road to the next harbor. There is a ship on Tuesdays and Saturdays and if we were fast enough, we could catch the next one tomorrow at noon. But the road was 100% rípio puro, which means the worst type of the road that still barely deserves that title. Heavy sticky mud, that turns into wet shit in the rain, followed by pieces of gravel the size of an egg. And that up and down all the time. Of course we didn't manage to pass the 80 km until the evening and what more, we were caught by rain. We would normally make the same distance on asphalt in quarter of the time. We found a handy camping spot by some river under a bridge, where we spent the night dry, while outside rained waterfalls and it didn't stop raining heavily until the next day. We abandoned the thought that we could still get to the harbor today. We decided to stay in the shelter under the bridge, hoping that the downpour would quiet down later and we would be able to continue. The next ferry was in three days so we were in no hurry anymore. If it wasn't for the river next to us that rose about 1,5 m since yesterday... The harmless playful stream changed into wild current that sped just a few meters next to us while the pouring rain didn't get any weaker. It was less than half a meter before the river floods us and all our possessions, when we settled that it will be better to go to the rain than swim.
We continued on the wet sinking mud. We had luck and after maybe one hour a car was passing! Two man had the cabin of the car full of some gears, so we got a ride on the bed. The road includes a ferry across the river, which still operated luckily, but was on the other side of the river at the moment. The driver summoned it by honking for 5 minutes. If we were alone here by bicycles, we could have never cried loud enough to get its attention at call it by. We would probably have to wait until the next car appears and that could be hours. Waiting in the rain would be no fun at all. After a while we reached the village and the men left us in front of a hostel. We could finally go to warm ourselves next to a stove. We heard the sound of the ship's horn coming from the sea. Thank god, the ships still operate.
The Sunday and Monday we spent clinging to the hostel's fire place, going out only for a short walk to the grocery store and waiting for the ship on Tuesday. Outside it haven't stopped pouring rain since three days. In the store, the sailing company had an office and we bought the tickets for the cruise. They warned us that the ship might be delayed in this weather. We will learn the ship's time of arrival tomorrow when it leaves the docks. Another guests, whom our landlord awaited since Saturday, haven't arrived neither yesterday nor today. The road was flooded with rain water and closed due to landslides for two days already. We were probably one of the last people who passed. We still didn't have any information about the cruise tomorrow.
On Tuesday morning it stopped raining. Ready and packed we rode to the port to see, if there was something happening. According to the schedule the ship should leave the port at 10 a.m. 15 minutes to 10 the workers on the pier told us that they aren't expecting any ship soon. We returned to the store to learn, that the ship sailed out and will arrive here at 5 p.m. When we were told that the ship can get here late, I imagined a delay of an hour or two. Now we had time another half a day, but we didn't want to unpack again, not to miss the ship we have waited for for 3 days. That evening when we arrived to the village 3 days ago came to our minds. The sound of the ship's horn must have been the previous ship, the one we believed we had missed, that was delayed as well.
During the day the owner of the hostel showed up to tell us, that the ship just left an harbor 1 and a half hour away and should be here at four. It looked like the whole village knows, when our ship is going, only we don't. At 4 p.m. we were at the harbor, where meanwhile a hand written message on the door of the habitable container serving as an office room appeared, that the ship will arrive at 16.15. There were also two other cars, (one of them having a sheep loaded on the bed, just being cut at the moment), so something was about to happen soon. In the end the arrival and departure of the ship was followed almost by a half of the village. The woman we knew from the store loaded the goods to the bed of her car. The whole boarding was followed also by two policeman with the siren turned on, to whom this was probably the highlight of their working weak. And most important, we boarded the ship! Because of the delay we will reach our destination at 2 a.m. We had no idea, what will we do, when we disembark in the city in the middle of the night. There were some "businessmen" next to the pier selling rooms, but they asked for ridiculous prices. For a moment we considered to sleep on the beach, but we listened to the common sense and didn't, because in the morning we found the beach flooded. In the end we found the office of the sailing company with a heated waiting room, where we could stretch on the benches and sleep for a couple of hours. They closed and threw us out only at 8 in the morning. And so we did it!
The road through the rain forest
The crazy current
Beaches of Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda
A ship on the horizon!
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