Sewing Jersey Sweatshirt Dress

2021-01-15

This is an old project I abandoned a while back and got back to eventually. It started with this pattern from a Burda magazine and the dress ended up way too large, though I checked the size chart and drew and sewed carefully, the same old story... I did everything right but your patterns suck so bad, Burda!!!

So, I now redraw the pattern taking correct measurements, cut the pieces to size and modified the hood to be smaller (mostly because I was worried about my fabric consumption). Then I put everything together using mainly home overlocker. If I did this again, I think I would rather use a regular sewing machine and a zig-zag stitch. The overlocker had hard times stitching through multiple layers of the mid-weight jersey and because I use only white thread in it, the seams are visible on the right side when the fabric is stretched tight.

The dress after the second attempt:



The wrong side:



I made the sleeves longer and if I’m not mistaken I also added a couple of centimetres to the bottom edge to make the dress longer. I plan to wear it over leggings in a polite society and don’t want my bum sticking out.





I was also looking for the best way to attach a hood. Using bias tape with knits is bloody difficult and I find myself with 6 or so layers of fabric to stitch through so I don’t even try to attempt that anymore. Usually I just run it all through the overlocker and count on the seam to stay inside of the neckline and out of sight. On this dress I tried out attaching the lining by hand, hiding the seam inside. It looks clean but I’m not sure if it’s worth the trouble.

The hand-stitched hood lining:



I think the finished dress is great! It is comfortable and yet decent enough to wear in public, even puting on leggings. I am so glad I finished this after all! Who says there are no happy-endings?

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